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Luxor
One of the soundest pieces of travel advice we’ve ever given we will
repeat here: take some time to learn about Luxor before seeing it.
Yes, you will have a skilled guide who will regale you with tales of
temples, tombs and treasure. Yes, you will walk the same stone
passageways once traveled only by royal entourages and worshipping
priests (comfortable, sturdy shoes are essential here). And yes,
you’ll wish for panoramic vision to better absorb the massive
majesty of the monuments. Fully expect to be overwhelmed by the
effects of Karnak, Luxor and the entire West Bank of the Nile. But
true appreciation goes hand in hand with understanding and for that,
you’ll need to invest some quality time with a good guide book. All
of our set tour itineraries allow two days in Luxor (of course if
you’re customizing your itinerary and ancient
Egypt is a passion,
plan on at least another day here) and a very full, energetic two
days it is.
Back in the 19th Century when archeologists began to uncover the
secrets of the ancient Egyptians, “wintering” in Upper (southern)
Egypt was the fashionable destination for Europe’s well-to-do. As
you stroll along Luxor’s Corniche, the riverside thoroughfare, pass
the stately hotels, listen to the clip clop of the colorful caleshe
horse taxis, you can feel a kinship with these early travelers. The
mysteries that drew them are just as potent today, although Luxor
has grown from a sleepy backwater to
Egypt’s #2 destination with its
own international airport. It’s a graceful, welcoming city,
comfortably accommodating tourists and scholars, adventurers and
vacationers. All with an easy, self-assured charm honed by four
thousand of years of “hosting.”
Today’s Luxor (from the Arabic al-Uqsor “the Palaces”) stands on the
site of Thebes, capital city throughout the dynasties of the New
Kingdom and, without doubt, one of the most impressive imperial
cities ever conceived. On the river’s east bank are the two
tremendous temple complexes, Karnak and Luxor, built to honor the
Theban Triad of Gods: supreme Amun-Re, his consort, Mut and their
son Khonsu. Both were built over centuries, with succeeding pharaohs
adding layer upon outer layer of courtyards, pylons, shrines and
hypostyle halls, lavish sculpture and decorations. Karnak covers 60
acres and is the largest dedicated religious site ever constructed.
Ramses the Great added Luxor’s phenomenal peristyle court and
established his grandiose building concepts. Ramses’ influence is
everywhere…lying collapsed at the foot of his West Bank mortuary
temple, the Ramasseum, is the largest granite colossus on record,
the statue which inspired Percy Bysshe Shelley in 1818 to write …
“Ozymandias King of Kings. Look on my works, ye Mighty and despair.”
Ramses the Great was certainly the best known of the luminous New
Kingdom pharaohs. But all were dedicated builders of spectacular
monuments for this world and the hereafter. Their tombs and those of
their queens and nobles were carved into the salmon pink rock within
the West Bank’s Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens and Valley
of the Nobles. We believe the best time to start the journey to the
tombs (fewest tourists and eerily clear dawn-streaked light) is
early morning. Best mode of transport: donkeys! Guaranteed to be an
experience you will never forget. When visiting the tombs remember
that the delicate inscriptions, fanciful artwork and intricate
carvings were never intended for viewing by living beings, rather as
an aid to the deceased king as he journeyed towards his final
judgment in the underworld. Besides the tombs the West Bank holds
other treasures like the mortuary temple of the only queen to rule
as Pharaoh, Hatshepsut. This remarkable edifice is a forerunner of
clean, classical design and is decorated with the most amazing
frieze paintings, some with original colors still vibrant, of her
exploits in far-off lands. And as long as there were tombs there
were tomb robbers; their descendents live today on the outskirts of
the West Bank, working, mining and carving in alabaster factories
those intricate, traditional designs known worldwide.
Is it obvious that Luxor is a special favorite with us? We hope so.
Luxor is a living, breathing museum, a collection of the phenomenal,
a place of sheer wonder. A place you’ll never forget.
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